Proper
Lubrication of Your Auto Pistol and Revolver
or How not to have Jams with your Auto And Keep Your
Revolver from Squeaking.
I'm sure that you have
all been told "don't oil your pistol/revolver
because it will jam or lock up. WRONG ANSWER!
Ten or twenty years ago that might have been partially
true. The lubricants that were available then were
completely different than the modern ones available
today. I have disassembled thousands of firearms over
the last thirty some odd years and have also probably
tried just about every "Snake Oil" that's been
available during that time. It has been my observation
that the oils that were available during the years prior
to the 1970's and 80's contained paraffins that turned
gummy with age and finally dried up leaving a hard
varnish-like coating on the surface. These oils also
became thicker as the temperature dropped causing
revolvers to become harder to operate and semi-auto
pistols more likely to "jam."
I'm not going to get into recommending any specific
brand of lubricants as there are so many good ones on
the market today. You will also find that some
lubricants are more suited for use under certain
conditions than others. I will leave the selection of
lubricant up to your judgment. What I will do is give
you the different conditions that require the use of
different types of lubricant and what properties the
lubricant should have to be effective under those
different conditions. Another variable that must be
covered is the different lubrication requirements of the
semi-auto pistol and revolver. To simplify the
discussion I will cover them separately.
First, let's cover the various types of conditions
encountered. For simplicity, all temperatures given will
be in Fahrenheit. The temperature range of 40 to 86
degrees can be handled by just about any oil as there
are no abnormal demands placed on the oil. A light
grease will work well also as this temperature range
will allow the grease to stay soft.
The temperature range of 39 degrees and below begins to
change the demands placed on the lubricant. As you well
know, the colder it gets, the thicker most oils and
greases become. As the temperature begins to drop and
the lubricant becomes thicker, the energy needed to move
a part becomes greater and greater. If the energy needed
to operate the specific firearm becomes greater than the
energy available, you will encounter a malfunction. The
semi-auto pistol will begin to malfunction due to
thickened lubricant sooner than a revolver as the power
to operate the semi-auto is provided by the cartridge
instead of your muscle power.
If you are going to use your firearm in a cold weather
environment and need to determine the suitability of a
specific lubricant the following tests can be performed.
Most of you probably have a freezer compartment in your
refrigerator. You will need a thermometer that will
register below zero so you can actually tell just how
cold a temperature your test is being conducted at. You
will want to chill some of your lubricant in a small
container so that you can actually see just how stiff it
will get at various temperatures. This can be determined
by placing the thermometer in the lubricant and chilling
it as cold as you can and then testing the thickness as
it warms up. If you don't want to go to all the hassle
of freezing and transporting a frozen gun to the range
for tests, freezing the lubricant and checking the
increase in thickness is a viable method to give you a
good idea of the suitability of a specific lubricant to
extreme cold weather. If you can find a lubricant that
remains nearly as thin at extremely low temperatures as
it does at room temperature, you can be pretty sure that
it will not cause a malfunction during cold weather use.
Most home freezers will not get below zero. For extreme
cold weather testing you will need to find a method to
reach lower temperatures than your home freezer. The
next situation that may be encountered is extremely hot
weather – temperatures above 85 degrees. Why test a
lubricant for high temperatures? You will find that some
oils will literally evaporate as the temperature exceeds
100 degrees. Many will become so thin that they offer
almost no lubrication and will run out of the areas in
the firearms that really need to be lubricated. You will
probably find that a good grease is more suitable for
extremely high temperature operations. If you intend to
test lubricants at elevated temperatures use only a heat
source that offers no flame or red hot elements. Oils
and greases can flash into flame when heated enough. A
source of heat that can be closely regulated so as not
to exceed 125 degrees without flame or red hot elements
is needed. Before you try the oven, remember that there
is an electric element that can get red hot in there and
some oils and greases give off smoke or odor when
heated. Be extremely careful if attempting this type of
testing, wear eye protection, gloves, and do the testing
outside.
Two other extremes in the environment can be encountered
and that can have an effect on the lubrication of a
firearm are wet and dry dusty conditions.
In wet weather, the best advice is to protect the
firearms from getting wet if at all possible. Otherwise
use a lubricant that repels water and does not allow
moisture to emulsify or mix with it. Some oils, when
subjected to water during movement of the surfaces that
it's on, will allow water to become trapped in it. This
severely decreases the lubrication ability of the oil.
Severe dust conditions
present another circumstance that can cause problems
with lubrication. Once again, if possible, protect the
pistol from the dust. In the desert, the dust is as fine
as talcum powder and gets into everything. It will even
penetrate the seals on a hydraulic system. In this
instance, the dust will mix with the lubricant and form
a lapping paste that will cause accelerated wear, and if
the firearm is not cleaned daily, can actually combine
with oil to form an extremely thick putty-like goop that
can actually stop the function of a semi-auto and cause
a revolver action to be almost impossible to pull
through. If the dust condition is severe enough it may
be advisable to use no lubricant at all, or use a dry
lubricant. Daily cleaning is absolutely mandatory if you
want to keep your firearm in operational condition.
Now that we have covered the various environmental
concerns of proper lubrication, let's get down to the
proper methods of lubricating the semi-auto and the
revolver.
First the semi-auto. The
semi-auto, which I refer to from now on as a pistol,
relies more heavily on the proper lubrication than the
revolver because it depends on the power of the
cartridge to operate it rather than your muscle power. I
would like to state that most good quality pistols that
are clean but dry of lubricant will function through
several magazines before a stoppage is encountered. The
stoppage that is usually encountered first is the
failure to close with a dry pistol.
Let's set up the usual scenario that I have encountered
– too many times to remember. The customer on the
phone has had a problem with his or her pistol jamming
when they were out to the range last week end and they
are concerned that they may need some special
reliability work or repair done so that it doesn't
happen again. They cleaned the pistol completely after
they were at the range the time before, and, yes they
lubricated it before they reassembled it after they
cleaned it. How long ago was that before this session on
the range? Oh, three or four weeks ago. What caused
their "jams?" The oil that they so carefully
used has run out of the pistol during storage. Their
pistol was actually almost dry of lubricant when they
started shooting. After several magazines, the failures
to close began. Also known as "jams." If you
are going to use only an oil to lubricate your pistol,
you must re-oil it just before you step up onto the line
to start shooting if you have had it stored for several
days or more. You also should re-oil the pistol after
each 50 rounds to keep things moving properly. Now I
don't mean that you should soak the pistol with oil
every 50 rounds, but just a few drops in the right
places.
Just what are the right places? With the pistol unloaded
and closed, put three or four drops on the barrel hood
that is exposed in the ejection port. Then lock the
slide open. Put a ring of oil 1/4 inch back of the
muzzle of the barrel. This will keep the barrel/bushing
area lubricated. If possible, put a couple of drops of
oil in the open ejection port where the slide and frame
touch on both sides. Turn the pistol upside down. The
rear of the slide is now sticking back of the frame.
Place two or three drops of oil in each slide rail
groove and one or two drops on the center rail that
cocks the hammer. Now close the slide and hand cycle the
pistol half a dozen times with the muzzle pointed down.
This will spread the oil. Wipe off any excess that might
run out at the rear of the slide/frame area and commence
firing.
This lubrication procedure done every 50 rounds will
keep you from having any malfunctions due to dry and/or
dirty pistol. Your pistol is getting dirty with carbon
fouling and unburned powder as you keep shooting. The
lubricant will keep this fouling in a suspension with it
instead of becoming hard and slowing down the cycle of
the pistol as it would if it were dry.
For those of you who carry a pistol on a daily basis, I
would like to recommend that you use a light weapons
grease instead of oil when you complete your weekly
cleaning routine. You do clean your carry pistol weekly,
don't you? It's real cheap life insurance, you know.
Anyway, if you use a light weapons grease, the grease
will not run out of the pistol as it rests in the
holster in a fixed position day after day. When you go
to the range to practice or qualify, be sure and do the
50 round lube with oil as recommended earlier.
Let's say that you have just finished cleaning your
pistol and are ready to lubricate it and reassemble it.
I would advise you to have several cotton tipped swabs
handy along with the lubricant of your choice. If you
are using a bottle oil and it comes with the little pipe
that sticks into the opening of the bottle, use it! This
little pipe allows you to apply small amounts of oil
evenly to the pistol without mass quantities of oil
running everywhere. It also saves on oil. If you are
using grease, you can dip the swab in grease and apply a
smooth, light coat of grease. The swab is also useful in
spreading oil into an even, light film. I'll use a 1911
style pistol as an example of where to put the lube, but
this will apply to all pistols.
Let's lubricate the slide first. The inside bore of the
slide needs to be lubricated. This is the part of the
slide that has the locking lug grooves in it. The top of
the barrel bears heavily against this part of the slide
during recoil as the slide moves back during the firing
cycle. Put a light coat of lube in the locking lug
recesses and all along the curved surface ahead of the
locking lugs. Next, put a light coat of lube in the
slide rail grooves, and on the surface below the groove,
as well as on the bottom of the slide rails. The center
rail, which cocks that hammer as the slide moves
rearward, and has to slide over each cartridge as the
pistol cycles, needs to have a light coat of lube
applied. If you have a series 80 style pistol, you also
need to apply a light coat of lube to the firing pin
plunger hole. A very light coat of lube can also be
applied to the firing pin hole. All parts can be wiped
with a light coat of oil. If you are using light weapons
grease, use it only on the bore of the slide and locking
lug grooves as well as the slide rail area. Oil is
recommended on all other areas of the slide and the
internal parts. Grease is especially suited to the high
load areas such as the bore of the slide and the rails,
but is a little too heavy for the small parts that exert
only a light bearing load as they function. The barrel
must be lubricated before you install it into the slide.
A light coat of grease or oil may be applied to the
locking lug area and the top of the large diameter of
the chamber area. A light coat is also applied to the
outside of the barrel tube where the bushing will rub
during firing. The locking lug and link area needs to
have grease or oil applied to the bearing surfaces also.
If you are going to the store the pistol for a long time
– months, a coat of grease can be applied to the
chamber and bore. THIS IS FOR LONG TERM STORAGE IN AN
UNLOADED CONDITION AND MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE YOU CAN
LOAD AND FIRE THE PISTOL. FAILURE TO REMOVE EXCESSIVE
LUBRICANT FROM THE CHAMBER AND BORE CAN CAUSE EXCESSIVE
PRESSURE WHICH CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE FIREARM AND
YOURSELF!!
The frame comes next. If you have completely
disassembled the frame, all internal components should
be given a light coat of oil before reassembly. Once
again, if you have light weapons grease, the frame rails
are the only area that needs that type of lube.
Let's not forget magazines. You should disassemble the
magazines and clean them at the same time that you clean
the pistol. Magazines need only the barest minimum of
lube. Don't forget the spring. The word again is very,
very light lubrication. If you are going to be shooting
practical pistol courses and will be dropping you mags
in the dirt, I would recommend that you use no lubricant
on your mags at all. Any lubricant will pick up and hold
gravel and dirt which will cause the ammo to stick in
the mags.
Now we'll cover revolvers. First, most people don't take
the side plates off of their revolvers when they clean
them, so we'll cover that type of lubrication first.
After you have cleaned your revolver's chambers, barrel,
and external surfaces, a light coat of oil is
recommended. The cylinder turns on a shaft that can be
called the crane or yoke. You can put one or two drops
of oil at the point that the cylinder and yoke join. Tip
the revolver muzzle up as you apply the oil and rotate
the cylinder after each drop. If you continue to hold
the muzzle up and turn the cylinder for a few moments
after you apply the oil, it will run to the rear of the
moving surfaces.
Next, you can apply one drop to the hand that rolls the
cylinder, while keeping the muzzle pointed upwards.
Immediately after applying the oil, cycle the action
several times. Open the cylinder again and put one drop
of oil on the rear of the cylinder in the center where
it turns against the frame. On S&W revolvers, there
is an ejector rod lock up in the front of the ejector
rod. Place one drop of oil into the end of the ejector
rod. Once again, tipping the muzzle upwards and turning
the cylinder will help spread the oil to the moving
surfaces. With the cylinder closed, cock the hammer. Put
two drops of oil along each side of the hammer while
it's cocked. Now cycle the action twelve times double
action to spread the oil, Turn the pistol upside down.
Put two drops of oil on each side of the trigger. Now
cycle the revolver twelve times while it is upside down
to spread the oil. This is about as good a job of
lubrication that can be done if you do not remove the
side plate. If you do not remove the side plate at all,
I would recommend that you have the pistol completely
disassembled at least annually by a pistolsmith and
thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. If you carry the
revolver daily, the complete disassembly should be done
semi-annually at a minimum.
If you can remove the side plate and do a complete
disassembly of your revolver, you should do so every 500
rounds. In this case, you can use a light weapons grease
on the internals. Again, a very light coating. Don't
over do it, you're not greasing the front end of your
car. You should also remove the cylinder from the yoke
when you do the complete disassembly so that you can
clean the yoke shaft and the inside of the cylinder area
that turns on the yoke.
A word about lubricants. I highly recommend that you use
a lubricant that has been designed for use in and on
firearms. Many specialty lubricants have additives that
will eventually harm your firearm and may cause
unforeseen problems.
And now for the commercial! If you use our Dunk-Kit to
clean your pistol or revolver, you will spend much less
time getting your firearm clean and Dunk-Kit will not
strip it dry as many of the spray cleaners do. It leaves
a very light coat of oil on the firearm that will
protect it, however, you will still need to do the
proper lubrication as explained in the preceding
paragraphs. For those of you who don't completely
disassemble you pistols or revolvers, Dunk-Kit will get
down inside of the actions and help flush out the crud
that can build up. I still recommend that you have your
firearm completely disassembled annually, at a minimum,
for complete cleaning. For you revolver shooters, if you
hold the action under the surface of the Dunk-Kit and
cycle the action slowly, the Dunk-Kit will flush out the
dirt and junk and keep the action very clean without
removing the side plate. You can let the revolver drip
dry or blow it out with air before applying the oil as
recommended.
For you auto shooters, remove the grips and submerge the
frame assembly in the Dunk-Kit. Use a toothbrush to
scrub the areas that you can get to. Then hold the frame
by the front of the recoil spring cover and agitate the
rest of the frame in the Dunk-Kit. This will allow the
Dunk-Kit to circulate through the action and remove the
crud you can't reach with your toothbrush. Again, I
recommend at least an annual disassembly for proper
cleaning.
I hope that this discourse on cleaning and lubrication
will help maintain your pistol or revolver in top
condition and add to its reliability.
GOOD SHOOTING!
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