18 February 2010
Currently I am
working on making the one piece long triggers and the
The long one piece
trigger is the most difficult part to manufacture besides
the frame, slide, and barrel. I feel that the original part was probably manufactured from
a forging. A
forging die is way too expensive to have made for a short
run of parts. My one piece triggers will be made from billet steel.
If you have ever
looked at an original one piece trigger and understand
machining this part is a work of machining art.
The complex shape and the thin bows make it quite
difficult to make even with todayís modern machining
change in the trigger that was introduced in 1928 for the
1911A1 made the trigger much easier to manufacture.
The bow is made from a stamping and the finger piece
is made from a stamping also.
This type of manufacturing would have reduced the
part price by at least 75%.
I am going to have
200 of these one piece triggers made.
There will be 100 of the triggers made available for
sale as parts and the other 100 will be reserved for the
looks like the triggers will have to sell for $95 each.
These triggers will have the finger piece highly
polished and then heat blued.
The magazines that
were used in the original 1911 pistols were made from
seamless tubing that was purchased from Germany according to
my information. I
cannot make magazines like that.
However, I can make the magazines with the pinned on
floor plate that shows the entire side of the floor plate
below the magazine tube sides.
The magazines will also have the lanyard loop on the
floor plate. The
manufacture of the floor plate is actually pretty
floor plate has two bosses machined on the top that have
1/16Ē holes drilled through them for the pins that hold
the floor plate on the tube.
The bosses also have to be machined on the ends so
that they can go up inside of the tube. These bosses keep the floor plate from sliding sideways on
the tube. The
pins keep the floor plate on the tube and keep the floor
plate from sliding fore or aft.
The pin holes in the tube must line up exactly with
the pin holes in the floor plate bosses so the tube must be
jig drilled to match the floor plate pin boss holes. The other little fun thing is the 5 degree angle on the back
of the floor plate to match the angle of the back of the
magazine to the bottom of the floor plate.
Donít forget that the sides of the floor plate must
line up nicely with the sides of the tube.
I hope that we can hold this tolerance very closely
so I donít have to make the floor plate width slightly
wide and then grind and buff them to match the tube.
This will add quite a bit to the price of the
magazine if I have to do it.
The magazines also have to be carbona blued.
They are not going to be two tone magazines.
According to my reference books the original
magazines were not two tone because they were not case
hardened by dipping the tops into molten cyanide.
I assume that the original magazines were pretty soft
and didnít hold up well.
Our magazines will be made from modern heat treated
steel. The lips
will be of the old ball style as they were.
The cut out in the back of the magazine at the top
will be new style with the rounded corners instead of the
sharp square corners as the dies that the tubes are made
from have that feature and I canít and donít want to
change that feature. The
reason that they changed from the square corners to the
rounded corners was that the magazines cracked there.
The other feature that I may have to keep on the
magazines is the 1/8Ē weep hole slot in the bottom of the
front of the magazine.
The originals did not have this weep hole.
I am not sure when the weep hole was added as I have
not come across that information.
The die that stamps out the tubes has the weep hole
built in to it and I donít know yet if that can be removed
from the die without a major reworking of the die.
donít have a cost figure on the magazines yet but they
will certainly cost more than a new 1911 magazine does.